Most of the time in Huanchaco was taken up either by surfing or Spanish lessons, which makes it sound tiring, but it was actually very enjoyable. We did finally make it out for some sight-seeing to the Huacas del Sol y de la Luna. The temples take their name from their resemblance to their Mexican counterparts, or perhaps more simply because they’re a pair. They were not, at the time of their use, dedicated to the gods of the sun and the moon. Only the Huaca de la Luna has been excavated, having been hidden until roughly 30 years ago, although we still don’t quite understand how something so massive can be hidden! It lies at the foot of a large hill/small mountain which was considered hold. The temple was dedicated to the worship of the principle deity of the Moche who I understood to live in the mountain. Of course, as with all the local deities, ritual sacrifice was required, and the museum included many artefacts related to or depicting the sacrifice.

The huaca has five layers, which represent old layers being buried at roughly 100 year intervals. Each time, the old temple was buried by filling in the inside, and also building around the outside, so that the next layer of the temple. This means that the inside of the structure is actually an inverted pyramid.